Adding a Lining to Moderne V1

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Today, as part of Moderne March I have a tutorial for adding a lining to V1

When I create patterns, I like to include as much variety as possible. Inevitably, I can't fit every variation into a pattern envelope, so I usually try to choose the best combination of details while allowing the sewist to combine elements to suit their tastes.

One that I wasn't able to include that I thought might appeal to many people was a lining for V1. Since it has full length sleeves, it's probably a better candidate for a more winter friendly coat than V2 (though I often wear my quilted version 2 in winter-it's super cozy!)

Modifying the pattern pieces included in the pattern to add a lining to V1 is straightforward, but perhaps a bit labor intensive. Because of this, I'd decided to create a bonus download of the piece here!

To start, print off the V1 Lining Addition PDF (download it here!)* Be sure 'scaling' is turned off or set to 100%. Print page one and measure the rectangle to ensure it has printed at the correct size.

You can cut your outer shell pieces using the original V1 yardage as a guide. For the lining, use the V2 yardage amounts, adding 1/4 yd extra to account for the longer sleeve lining piece.

Sewing Instructions

Assemble your coat's outer shell following the pattern instructions, ending with step 23.  Make any fit adjustments as necessary and transfer to your lining pieces.

Sew together your lining, following the instructions given for V2, skipping the step to attach the hem facing.

To add a bit of ease to your lining and to help prevent wear, sew your lining side seams on the sleeves and coat body at 3/8" rather than 1/2", tapering out to 1/2" at the hems. Returning to this seam allowance at the hems makes it easier to attach the lining to the outer shell.

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You'll also sew at 3/8" when attaching the sleeves to the armhole, again tapering back to 1/2" at the beginning and end of each armhole seam.

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Sew the short bottom edge of each placket as instructed in step 24.

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With right sides together, sew your lining and outer shell fabric together at the hems. Press your seam allowance towards the lining. If you are using the modified zipper placket, you may want to trim away the seam allowance where the zipper is sewn in to reduce bulk before sewing this end (I trimmed it away afterwards...you can see the chunk of seam allowance in the seam! Best to do it beforehand 😉 )

Pin each placket to the coat front, then continue pinning the lining along the second side of the placket, matching notches. Sew around the placket raw edge. Push the placket out and press the seam allowances towards the coat.

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Once turned right side out, your coat will look like this:

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However, you'll need it to be inside out for the remaining steps.

Now you can resume your pattern instructions for attaching the cuffs and collar, starting with step 28 and ending at step 32. At this point, the knit collar is basted onto the coat collar. This step is labeled 'optional', but for this version it is necessary.

Next, skip to step 42 (where the collar is attached in V2) and pin and sew the neckline together with the knit collar sandwiched in between, matching notches.

Then, skip to step 52 and attach the lining at the sleeve cuffs following the instructions. In this step, you'll want to fold the knit cuff back so that it is laying flat against the coat sleeve, then sew as instructed.

Continue to follow the pattern instructions to complete the lining. Once the coat is turned right side out, give the placket a good press. Press the hem, making sure it is 2" wide to ensure that your coat hangs properly.

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Our next Moderne tutorial will feature something special for those of you who like to knit! Any guesses? It will also be the post that reveals the thoroughly renovated Moderne coat I've used in the tutorials, so stay tuned!