Jackets

kg-jacket

I am working on a project for artist Kate Gilbert's upcoming exhibition HIDE:SEEK. I am constructing a series of altered coats involving many large pieces. I had to move into the HAP board room and cut pieces on the conference table

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This particular coat featured lining AND underlining. I was able to omit the underlining for the first two versions since their fabric was stable and stiff. The third version, made from a black and copper jacquard was more flimsy and required underlining.

I chose to underline the jacquard with poly organza to give it stiffness while still keeping it light. But how to cut out pieces larger than a cutting table, cut on the fold and all underlined while being time efficient?

I organized the fabric into layers...luckily both the jacquard and the organza were fairly stable. I pinned 1 layer of jaquard and organza together, matching selvedges and ripped cross grain, and smoothed the fabric to relax the grain. I then layered the next pair of fabrics one at a time, making sure to align selvedges and grain properly.

I then laid out all pattern pieces on the fabric and pinned them down. I usually trace pattern pieces rather than cut, but pining the pieces down helped to stabilize the layers both while cutting and shifting the fabric (I had to pin pieces, then slide the fabric off the table to pin the next set on the remaining fabric)

Once sewing these layers, I was pleased to find that both fabric and facing were on grain and relatively matched (aside from a 1/8" here and there on the organza, nothing problematic)

kg-jacket

The show is up MAY 28 - JUNE 1, 2013 with an opening reception on THURSDAY MAY 30, 2013, 5:30 - 7:30 at CARROLL AND SONS 450 HARRISON AVENUE, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 02118.