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Silk Blouse

Taylor McVay November 17, 2010

(img from http://www.aurorasilk.com/fabrics/silks_matte_and_peace/index.html, from purveyor of worm friendly silk)

I have had a piece of blue* silk satin in my fabric pile for about two years. It was purchased at a place called the East Bay Depot for Creative Reuse, a source for some other great fabric I picked up on a trip to Oakland, CA to visit friends.

It's been historically difficult for me to identify fabric content on the fly (especially blends) though I've developed a bit of a protocol. The idea of a 'burn test' seems impractical to me, especially since I have fire anxiety. I also have a hard time identifying fabric weaves as well, if its categorization falls anywhere beyond plain, twill, satin, jacquard, and any texture vaguely identifiable as 'crepe'.

So, as far as I can tell, this blue fabric is made of silk, and of some sort of satin weave.

Silk satin is, among contemporary sewing circles, notoriously hard to work with. Stories abound of slippage, pins falling out willy-nilly, over-pressing, spotting, etc.

I had an okay time. As far as keeping things positioned and cutting on the grain, I give myself an A-. Practicality aside, silk satin feels simultaneously precious and sturdy, which makes working with it fairly arousing, associations with lingerie aside. It links you to a history of fine garment making, though it also seems oddly utilitarian in its historical duration as a material.

A few things that turned out well: Despite a tendency for slippery fabrics to curl and pucker, I was able to press construction into submission with few negative effects. This is the work of a good iron (or, as suggested earlier, a fabric containing hints of cotton and/or rayon).

Also (as pictured above) I was able to create some nice smocking, despite the pillowy nature of the fabric. I used one of my new favorite tricks to stay the smocking: Using a piece of the fabric's selvage as a coordinated stay tape.

Here is the blouse, semi-finished. The big blue** bow came from a mixed bag of ribbon scraps purchased at the nefarious Sturbridge Antique Textile Fair. The pattern used is the top half of a Butterick dress pattern from the early 1940s. Our next installment will be on the evolution of this particular garment, from idea to object.

Future installments may involve discussion of subjects contained herein. If so, this article will link to those articles once created.

*blue in this case refers to what is loosely defined by Wikipedia as the following: Air Force, Blue Gray, Cadet, Cornflower, Dark Pastel, Glaucous, Moonstone, Steel, UCLA. This collective color identity best defines the blouse fabric. This reminds me of a project I participated in with artist Benjamin Austin involving conversation conducted to manifest a color sonically and dialogically. I would like to include this work in a future post.

**alice, powder, periwinkle, etc.

InThoughts Tagscolor, fabric, history, narrative, performance, persona, sewing, silk, vintage
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A few years ago I created a notebook of fabric swatches to use as a reference when teaching sewing classes. It needs an update ( a few substrates are missing) but otherwise it’s been a great resource. #teachingfashion #sewingteacher #swatches
A few years ago I created a notebook of fabric swatches to use as a reference when teaching sewing classes. It needs an update ( a few substrates are missing) but otherwise it’s been a great resource. #teachingfashion #sewingteacher #swatches
Nothing like an outfit of all your favorite colors and me mades take your mind off the deceptively sunny 39 degree April weather. ☀️❄️🤷🏻‍♀️
#blueprintsmoderne #kalleshirtdress #handknits #handmadewardrobe
Nothing like an outfit of all your favorite colors and me mades take your mind off the deceptively sunny 39 degree April weather. ☀️❄️🤷🏻‍♀️ #blueprintsmoderne #kalleshirtdress #handknits #handmadewardrobe
One of these days I’m going to get this loom setup and start weaving... maybe during summer vacation? Too many crafts, too little time 😌
One of these days I’m going to get this loom setup and start weaving... maybe during summer vacation? Too many crafts, too little time 😌
My MIL makes this really amazing deodorant - @dabdeodorant . It’s vegan and organic and smells lovely (not too strong) and actually works really well. Most deodorants (even natural ones) really irritate my skin, but this stuff is super gentle and it works really well, too! Especially after a marathon day of teaching. If you’re into natural body products, or just want to support an awesome woman owned small business, check it out! ✨🙌
My MIL makes this really amazing deodorant - @dabdeodorant . It’s vegan and organic and smells lovely (not too strong) and actually works really well. Most deodorants (even natural ones) really irritate my skin, but this stuff is super gentle and it works really well, too! Especially after a marathon day of teaching. If you’re into natural body products, or just want to support an awesome woman owned small business, check it out! ✨🙌
I’ve been part of a coven of small business crafty ladies for a few years and it’s been a tremendous experience. Today we had our last meeting before one of us moves to a different state. We ate lots of snacks and talked about projects and drew cards for the future. Our group will continue in new ways, but it felt right to mark the occasion. 💫
...
Sharing in struggles and being open and listening is a wonderful way to build community, small or large. I’m still working on a blog post about how we’ve structured our group. Hopefully one day I’ll finish it and it can be of some use to others!🧡 (😘 @khgarts @eloise.draws @eyetradehandmade )
I’ve been part of a coven of small business crafty ladies for a few years and it’s been a tremendous experience. Today we had our last meeting before one of us moves to a different state. We ate lots of snacks and talked about projects and drew cards for the future. Our group will continue in new ways, but it felt right to mark the occasion. 💫 ... Sharing in struggles and being open and listening is a wonderful way to build community, small or large. I’m still working on a blog post about how we’ve structured our group. Hopefully one day I’ll finish it and it can be of some use to others!🧡 (😘 @khgarts @eloise.draws @eyetradehandmade )
Finally getting around to finishing this crazy appliqué top! All scraps from my stash, stitched onto a top salvaged from a dress gone wrong. Still changing some shapes around but liking the progress so far... #applique #scrapbusting
Finally getting around to finishing this crazy appliqué top! All scraps from my stash, stitched onto a top salvaged from a dress gone wrong. Still changing some shapes around but liking the progress so far... #applique #scrapbusting
Testing out a shaped pocket. I forgot to add seam allowance to the pocket (it happens to everyone!) so it’s a bit on the small side. I’m also not sure how it will hold up in this slinky linen. But it’s super cool Iooking so I’m giving it an 8.5/10! ✨ #patterndrafting #sewing #ilovepockets
Testing out a shaped pocket. I forgot to add seam allowance to the pocket (it happens to everyone!) so it’s a bit on the small side. I’m also not sure how it will hold up in this slinky linen. But it’s super cool Iooking so I’m giving it an 8.5/10! ✨ #patterndrafting #sewing #ilovepockets
I feel very strongly about pockets big enough to hold a notebook.🧡📓#handmadefashion #blueprintsmoderne #giantpockets
I feel very strongly about pockets big enough to hold a notebook.🧡📓#handmadefashion #blueprintsmoderne #giantpockets
Just browsing through some bits from my sewing ephemera collection. I’ve collected it for years and really cherish the bits when I find them but rarely have a look through later on. Maybe I should open a museum... 🤔🏫
Just browsing through some bits from my sewing ephemera collection. I’ve collected it for years and really cherish the bits when I find them but rarely have a look through later on. Maybe I should open a museum... 🤔🏫
Participated in the 2nd annual Community Arts Advocacy Day today in Franklin MA. A fantastic event with workshops, networking, and an awesome panel discussion with intelligent and passionate folks from arts organizations around Mass. Thanks to everyone who came out today to participate and to the #franklinculturalcouncil !
...
Here’s @chairstarz and I in the photobooth I created for the event.(You can see some more behind the scenes in my stories!) #caad2018 #artsmatter #advocacy
Participated in the 2nd annual Community Arts Advocacy Day today in Franklin MA. A fantastic event with workshops, networking, and an awesome panel discussion with intelligent and passionate folks from arts organizations around Mass. Thanks to everyone who came out today to participate and to the #franklinculturalcouncil ! ... Here’s @chairstarz and I in the photobooth I created for the event.(You can see some more behind the scenes in my stories!) #caad2018 #artsmatter #advocacy
A few years ago I created a notebook of fabric swatches to use as a reference when teaching sewing classes. It needs an update ( a few substrates are missing) but otherwise it’s been a great resource. #teachingfashion #sewingteacher #swatches Nothing like an outfit of all your favorite colors and me mades take your mind off the deceptively sunny 39 degree April weather. ☀️❄️🤷🏻‍♀️
#blueprintsmoderne #kalleshirtdress #handknits #handmadewardrobe One of these days I’m going to get this loom setup and start weaving... maybe during summer vacation? Too many crafts, too little time 😌 My MIL makes this really amazing deodorant - @dabdeodorant . It’s vegan and organic and smells lovely (not too strong) and actually works really well. Most deodorants (even natural ones) really irritate my skin, but this stuff is super gentle and it works really well, too! Especially after a marathon day of teaching. If you’re into natural body products, or just want to support an awesome woman owned small business, check it out! ✨🙌 I’ve been part of a coven of small business crafty ladies for a few years and it’s been a tremendous experience. Today we had our last meeting before one of us moves to a different state. We ate lots of snacks and talked about projects and drew cards for the future. Our group will continue in new ways, but it felt right to mark the occasion. 💫
...
Sharing in struggles and being open and listening is a wonderful way to build community, small or large. I’m still working on a blog post about how we’ve structured our group. Hopefully one day I’ll finish it and it can be of some use to others!🧡 (😘 @khgarts @eloise.draws @eyetradehandmade ) Finally getting around to finishing this crazy appliqué top! All scraps from my stash, stitched onto a top salvaged from a dress gone wrong. Still changing some shapes around but liking the progress so far... #applique #scrapbusting Testing out a shaped pocket. I forgot to add seam allowance to the pocket (it happens to everyone!) so it’s a bit on the small side. I’m also not sure how it will hold up in this slinky linen. But it’s super cool Iooking so I’m giving it an 8.5/10! ✨ #patterndrafting #sewing #ilovepockets I feel very strongly about pockets big enough to hold a notebook.🧡📓#handmadefashion #blueprintsmoderne #giantpockets Just browsing through some bits from my sewing ephemera collection. I’ve collected it for years and really cherish the bits when I find them but rarely have a look through later on. Maybe I should open a museum... 🤔🏫 Participated in the 2nd annual Community Arts Advocacy Day today in Franklin MA. A fantastic event with workshops, networking, and an awesome panel discussion with intelligent and passionate folks from arts organizations around Mass. Thanks to everyone who came out today to participate and to the #franklinculturalcouncil !
...
Here’s @chairstarz and I in the photobooth I created for the event.(You can see some more behind the scenes in my stories!) #caad2018 #artsmatter #advocacy
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